Lake Champlain

After two nights here at Waterford, the southern end of Lake Champlain and the last lock headed north, PM and I are away again today to move into the clear waters of the lake.  We have almost three weeks before we intend to move south again to New York and a planned connection with Phil and Bettina over Labor Day weekend.  The pace has definitely slowed as we changed our route to return to the Hudson River from Utica and go north along the Champlain Canal instead of trying to complete the "little loop" of Ottawa, Montreal and return to the US via the Chamblay Canal south from Sorel, Quebec.  The decision has been a good one, as the stress of making that longer distance in the time allowed would be less than the joy we enjoy at this less harried pace.  Another trip, another summer adventure awaits for us to do the Rideau and Ottawa River route.

The history of the revolutionary War and War of 1812 pervades these waters.  Here in Whitehall, NY, the town boasts to be the "Birthplace of the US Navy".  Benedict Arnold first "requisitioned" private ships and built small gun boats here which were used further up the lake to delay the British in 1775 as they sailed south on Lake Champlain to attack New York.  This movement of troops down the Hudson was to coordinate with the British Fleet's planned attack of the city from the sea.  The action here by Arnold (and this was before he changed sides later in the war to provide the British with intelligence on American troop movements for a hefty payment in sterling and only after horrible mistreatment by the fledgling American Congress, who refused to compensate him for his costs in raising men and outfitting the fleet) delayed the British advance south for a year and gave the fledgling American Navy time to regroup, rebuild, rearm and strengthen their defenses along the Hudson River. Had Arnold not created this small fleet of ships here at Whitehall, the British army would most likely have been able to quash "the rebellion" and America would have today a history more like Canada, with an allegiance to England and with the resources and wealth of our country transported to England to strengthen the British Empire throughout the 18th and 19th centuries.

We move only about 20 miles today and after transiting Lock 12 here at Whitehall, it will be simple navigation to our next port of call at Chipman Marina at Orwell, VT.  Oh, and the weather has turned cooler, finally.  We use our blanket on the bed at night for the first time in a month.  The days of August await us as we explore this inland lake and learn more about our founding history.

And as a side note, I am 65 today.  I feel so much younger than that but will enjoy all the benefits of my senior status, cheap meals, discounts at parks, and Medicare, yeah!  Now I can get all those little fixes done that us seniors seem to need to keep us lookin' good.

PM's Perspective

Whitehall has been an unsuspected treasure.  Skipper Bob's publication description as a "rust belt town ... trying to recover" does not do the town justice.  True, all manufacturing has up and gone, the town is a contestant for the most vacant downtown storefronts award and has restaurants that come and go within a year.  However, the energy here is upbeat and dynamic like no other "rust belt" victim.  The waterfront is welcoming with a docking wall inclusive of electric and water and modern bathroom and shower facilities at the cost of a donation.  The architectural crown jewel of the town is known as the Skenes (pronounced Skeen) Manor perched on the bluff on the east side of the canal and overlooking downtown.  Looking like the Addamm's family residence, the mansion was purchased about 20 years ago by a historically minded group of locals hastily assembled once they found out the structure was about to be dismantled and transported to Connecticut.  Ever since, the mansion has been undergoing loving and never-ending restoration.  A short steep walk from the waterfront, the mansion includes a restaurant serving lunch and offers tours.

The mansion was completed in 1874 at a cost of $25,000 as the residence of Judge Joseph Potter, a New York Supreme Court Judge.  Several owners later the building was used as a restaurant for several decades.  The structure captured its name from the founder of the town, Philip Skenes.  Why it is named the Skenes Manor and not the Potter Place or some other more relevant name is beyond me.  Stories abound about spirits haunting the third floor pink room.  We can see the mansion from our dockage, and at night there are lights on in the tower that look like eyes that do provide a certain mystique.  While operated as a restaurant, the owner, in an effort to drum up business, created a story that Katherine Skenes, wife of Philip, was buried in the basement and walks the premises at night.  That story however is bunk as Katherine died about a century before the mansion was even constructed.  Good marketing though!