Hard Aground Chapter 1

PM's Perspective

Let's face it, smooth sailing through crystal clear water along scenic countryside visiting idyllic quaint villages with unique boutiques, charming architecture and lovely informative museums is boring, so I will not bore you but will provide you with the more exciting moments of our Velomer adventure!

To quickly catch up, from Annapolis we cruised to Summit North Marina on the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal.  We planned to stay a week, but the weather forecasts became more and more ominous with bad weather extending for more than a week.  Based on the impending forecast, we decided to take advantage of the current fair weather and high tail our way to New York Harbor where we would visit with Phil and Bettina in Brooklyn.  The trip was to take four days.  Day 1 from the C&D Canal to Cape May, NJ; Day 2 from Cape May to Atlantic City; Day 3 from Atlantic City to Manasquan, NJ; and Day 4 from Manasquan to New York Harbor, exact location to be determined.

Day 1, May 28, was one of our longer cruise days, but quite doable.  We departed the dock at the crack of dawn and arrived in Cape May with daylight to spare and time to walk around the area and buy fresh fish for dinner.  Day 2 began again at the crack of dawn as we left the dock.  With such an early departure, we were scheduled to arrive in Atlantic City by 11:00 AM.  This left us just too much time in Atlantic City, not our favorite spot.  Bob and I just looked at each other as we approached and simultaneously came to the conclusion that we were Manasquan bound.  We arrived in Manasquan by 6:00 PM having done 86.6 nautical miles, a new record for us for one day's cruise.  Best of all, we avoided Atlantic City with its artificial glitz and downwardly spiraling economy!

Manasquan in the morning

The next day we woke up to clear skies in our immediate vicinity but could see thick fog out on the ocean.  Bob, in his optimism, said, "It will burn off in no time."  We departed by 7:30 AM exiting the Manasquan inlet into the pea soup fog on the ocean.  We figured few if any sport fishing boats would be out in this fog, but used the radar system to make sure we wouldn't run into anything.  This was the first time we really had to use radar for serious navigation but were able to make our way without ramming into anything (just yet)!  My main concern was our approach to New York Harbor and the main shipping channels, but fortunately, the fog did burn off just as we entered the harbor.  Initially we were going to find a marina on Staten Island, but Phil recommended we find something closer to Brooklyn.  We found our ideal spot at Sheepshead Bay Yacht Club directly behind Coney Island.  The neighborhood offered everything we could want including Cherry Hill Gourmet, a grocery store deli with the most wonderful fresh prepared foods imaginable; easy access to the subway; and incredible people.  We arrived strangers and left adopted family members!  Our week in Brooklyn was spent not only eating fantastic food but visiting with Phil, Bettina and Bettina's parents, and of course our grandpuppy, Otto.  Our one trip into Manhattan was to visit with our dear friends Sam and Suzie whom we get to see all too infrequently.

Phil, Bettina and Otto at
Croton-Harmon High School

On Saturday, June 6, Phil, Bettina, Otto, Bob and I headed north on Velomer to Half Moon Bay marina in Croton-on-Hudson, my home town.  Unfortunately, blustery north winds and incoming tide made for a very rough ride, the longest sustained rough seas we have ever experienced.  Velomer is a mighty boat and could take the pounding, the folks aboard not so much.  Even poor Otto, all decked out in his personal flotation device, looked a bit green around the gills.  Bettina, who is prone to motion sickness, took a good dose of Benadryl and was able to sleep through much of it.  Once docked at Half Moon Bay, the winds calmed down.  The next day and after a solid night's sleep, we all took a walking tour of downtown Croton where I indicated the three schools I attended, my favorite haunts, Senasqua Beach, the railroad station, the former Grand Union grocery store, the intersection where my dad was a crossing guard and the like punctuated by childhood stories. That afternoon we walked to Croton-Harmon Station and bid Phil, Bettina and Otto farewell as we put them on a train to New York and Bob and I returned to Velomer to continue the Great Loop.

Hudson River Valley

The next morning we bid Croton adieu and headed up the Hudson again.  The Hudson River Valley is definitely eye candy with the majesty of West Point, the prominence of Bear Mountain and everything in between.  One of my favorite features of the river are the lighthouses.  We overnighted at Riverview Marina in Catskill and arrived in Waterford just north of Albany.  Waterford is the starting point of the Erie Canal for west bound vessels.  The town has a very welcoming waterfront with a long wall where boaters may tie up for as many as two days, a tourist info center, showers and restrooms.

Albany from the Hudson

Restaurants, laundromat, grocery store, and hardware store are within an easy waking distance.  Most boats take advantage of the town's hospitality and stay at least two nights and sometimes more depending on the weather.  In stark contrast to our last Erie Canal experience, we passed through the locks without major mishaps.  No boat hook lost, no hull slamming against the lock walls.  We made it as far as Brewerton when we received the news that the Erie Canal

Bob, PM, and Brian

was closed until further notice due to heavy rains in the Finger Lakes region creating flooding and a great deal of debris in the canal.  We, along with many other boaters, made the most of the situation.  Some took the opportunity to travel home to touch base with family, others did work on their boats, others rented cars to explore upstate New York.  We did a variety of things like get our teeth cleaned, discovered the joy of food shopping at Wegman's, and nurtured a fast friendship with Dede and Jim McGuire, aboard the good vessel Hope, whom we met at Little Falls.  We also used the time to touch base with Brian Burns, my high school classmate who lives in Syracuse and his partner, Doris.  Friends who knew you way back when are quite special.

After eight days, the canal reopened and we took advantage of the situation by heading out on

Visitor on Velomer, a 2" water bug

Tuesday, June 23 along with Dede and Jim aboard Hope.  We had eight locks and 30 miles to negotiate to get to our destination of Oswego, NY on Lake Ontario where we planned to spend two nights to prepare for entry into Canada.  In the second lock, the bow thruster died. Again!  The remaining six locks were a testament to Bob's boat handling skills and my line handling skills.  The situation was made even more challenging by the fact that it was quite windy and Velomer's flybridge enclosure tends to catch the wind and act like a sail.  Despite some tense moments, we made it into Wright's Landing International Marina in Oswego.  Bob was able to repair the bow thruster that had shattered a shear pin by replacing the pin, not an easy task, but not impossible.  The next day the four of us enjoyed visiting Fort Ontario in Oswego and exploring the town by bicycle.

Lighthouse on Oswego breakwater

In the early afternoon, Bob went to enter our course across Lake Ontario and into Canada where we planned to go through customs in Trenton.  The only problem was that the chart plotter wouldn't load the Canadian charts.  After an hour on the phone with Garmin, the tech at Garmin decided the plotter had a defunct chip reader.  "This is an easy fix," he said.  "Send the Garmin back to the factory, we'll fix or replace the reader and send it back to you."  "How long and how much will that be?" I asked.  "Well, let's see.  Once we get the unit, we can have it back to you in 10 to 14 days.  Too bad your warranty ran out last month, so it will be about $500 plus shipping."  This timing was absolutely not going to work as we had reservations at Peterborough, ON for June 30 and July 1 for Canada Day (their Independence Day).  The problem was solved by calling West Marine 45 miles away that happened to have a new chart plotter on sale and would deliver it to the boat that evening! Yeah, West Marine, our hero.  That night we had a potluck dinner on Hope saying our goodbyes as Dede and Jim were going in another direction.  We will sorely miss traveling with these lovely folks!

Welcome sign at entrance to the
Trent-Severn Canal

The next morning we left the marina at 6:15 AM and headed out across Lake Ontario.  By this time, the high winds of two days prior had calmed down and the crossing fairly uneventful.  Our main concern at the time was Canadian customs.  While at Wegman's and charmed by all the fresh fruits and vegetables, we really loaded up on these items.  After putting away all these great foods, I googled what we can and cannot bring into Canada.  Among the forbidden items were fresh fruits and vegetables.  Determined not to have any of these confiscated by customs officials, Bob and I were eating as many of these as humanly possible.  "What's for breakfast?" Bob asked.  "Fresh fruits and vegetables," I replied.  "What's for lunch, snack, dinner?"  The answer was always the same.  Fresh fruits and vegetables.  Stir fried, sauteed, roasted, salad, every imaginable form.  Oh, for a potato chip!  When we finally reached our destination of Trenton, ON, Bob went ashore to clear customs (I had to stay on Velomer during the process as only the captain is allowed onshore).  One of the first questions the custom's official asked was, "Do you have any fresh fruits or vegetables, any meats, any alcohol?" "Yes to all the above."  Bob was prepared to list all contents of Velomer's larder when the official asked, "Are they intended for consumption aboard the boat?" "Yes, Sir." To which he replied, "Welcome to Canada.  Your customs number is ...." So all that worry (and eating) was unnecessary.  Live and learn.  Next time, we'll know.

Velomer in Lock 1 of the
Trent Severn Canal

The next day we started the process of locking up the Trent Severn Canal, a waterway 240 miles long with 44 locks.  We didn't leave the dock until early afternoon.  We had a light day ahead of us intending to go through six locks over 12 miles and spend the night at the bottom of Lock 7.  The locks are very well maintained and have at least two attendants if not three.  The fills are very gentle and more often than not, you travel through the locks with other boats, often the same boats lock after lock for that particular day.  Often locking through is a social event with lots of conversation and merriment.  In our first lock we met up with a number of other loopers, a few of whom we first met at the

View from suspension bridge of
Ranney Falls in Campbellford

conference in Norfolk.  Our first day was quite pleasant and enjoyable.  That night we moored along the lower wall of Lock 7 with the folks on Chimera, another 36' Monk.  The following day was equal in quality as we made our way through the next six locks and 15 miles to Campbellford, located between Lock 12 and 13.  The community has town docks on either side of the canal, a recreation trail, restaurants, grocery store, liquor store, and most importantly a chocolate factory.  The most outstanding feature of the town is a huge sculpture of the toonie, the two dollar coin, in the downtown park (see below). Due to inclement weather forecasts, we decided to stay here for two days and enjoy what the town has to offer. Our second day included a hike in the rain to Ranney Falls and across the suspension bridge, restocking supplies, and visiting with other loopers.  Our good times, however, were not to continue indefinitely! To be continued.