Burton Island and the Inland Sea

Bob's Input:

Course: Sledrunner Point anchorage in Shelburn Bay to Malletts Bay
Malletts Bay to Burton Island
Weather: our first daytime significant rain while were on the mooring here at Burton Island but the sunsets and rainbows more than compensate for this
Seas:  4-6 foot chop out of Malletts Bay until we turned north to run with the waves into
The Gut" of the Inland Sea in St. Albans, VT
Distance Run: 869 miles (S) since leaving Maine
Engine Hours: 193 (time again to change the oil and filters)

Lake Champlain has been such a pleasant surprise.  The navigation, tidal and weather issues have been non factors.  PM and I share boat helming and navigation and have become a well practiced team at docking, locking and living aboard a 36 foot boat, which admittedly has several levels we can escape to for privacy or reflection or escape (thankfully not much of that).

Taking our 15 year old bikes along has been a great decision as we have found several opportunities to take 20-30 mile rides. Along the Erie Canal, a bike path has been created along the former tow path and now in Vermont, we always seem to find very bicycle friendly small towns. While in Malletts Bay at Champlain Marina, we rode along on old rail bed and then into Burlington all off road for a 25 mile day.  We stopped at ECHO in Burlington and were educated about "Champ", the legendary sea critter from the Jurassic Era that some believe still inhabits the 400 foot depths of the lake.  We saw a video made of the only authenticated picture of the critter, and learned that there have been sightings for hundred of years by the locals.  I have been on the look out for days but thus far only have seen boat wakes and ducks, both of which could have been Champ.  We have another week on the Lake Champlain so perhaps there is still time to see her.

These days are so gentle.  We have been at several marinas, where we meet incredible happy people, boat people are the happiest I have known. When we arrived at Champlain Marina in Colchester, we arrived on the day the annual summer dock party was scheduled.  Wow, these people know how to throw a dock party, bottomless glasses of champagne, fresh shrimp, salmon, chips and dips of course and engaging conversations about the affairs of the world and the affairs of the marina, of which there were a few.

I have never felt so welcomed at a marina where we were total strangers at first but soon had a dozen new friends.  John and Kathy Scott had the Mainship two slips from us, Mike had the Carver 32 next to them and France and Vitel and their lovely 5 year old daughter, Laurie, who spoke perfect English, a Quebecois family visiting the marina on their power boat, were in the slip next door.  I had a rare chance to practice my fractured french with them; they were very tolerant of my accent and lack of verb tenses.  We had intended to stay one evening but stayed several days.  Boat life has been like that, we find a place we like and stay awhile, absorbing the local history, culture and especially meeting great people, some of whom we hope will become life friends.

So yesterday, today and tomorrow VELOMER is secured to a mooring at Burton Island State Park. The weather for the next two days is iffy with strong winds forecast  from the south. 20 knots of wind would not be such an issue on the open ocean, but as Lake Champlain runs north and south, any breeze from either direction has a chance to build some significant chop.  We had 3-4 foot steep and short period chop coming north two days ago from Burlington. Actually VELOMER handles these well if we're going with the seas but rolls quite a bit in a crossing sea, which we experienced for a hour coming out of Malletts Bay.  I have a steadying sail which would reduce the roll significantly, but I never seem to remember to set it before we need it.  The exercise PM and I get holding position at the upper helm is good for our core workout of the day. And while this boat can handle much worse conditions than we have thus far encountered, we are traveling without a time schedule so we are fair weather traveler this adventure, and we choose not to venture out in inclement or rough seas. Yes, I know, we are losing our Maine "go anywhere go anytime" attitude.  Such is cruising the inland waters of the northeast.

In a day or two (or three) we head up to Rouse's Point and Gaines Marina, about 21 miles north of here and the most northerly part of Lake Champlain before it becomes Canadian water.  We may be able to anchor again at Valcour Island, if the wind cooperates on Friday and then meet up with some new friends, John and Kathy Scott from Champlain Marina, on Friday to cruise down to Willsboro Bay and a scrumptious meal at the marina there. The anchorages at Valcor are very popular.  The island is a state park with special history.

From the west side of this small island in 1775, Benedict Arnold, while he was still on our side of the war, surprised the British fleet sailing south to attack New York from the north.  His action was more a delaying action that a victory, but did stop the advance south of this large fleet of troops and munitions until the following spring.  If they had made it to New York, General Washington would have been sorely pressed from two sides and the war would have likely had a very different course.  I have no doubt that the Continental Army would have rallied at some other point but the war would likely have been much more costly in terms of lives and resolve.  Arnold's action and a subsequent action the following spring at Fort Ticonderoga, gave the fledgling American army its first positive result of the war, encouraged resolve to resist British dominance of American affairs and led to the founding of America 6 years later.

We videod a rainbow at Sledrunner Point for you to enjoy.   We are amazed at the number and quality of "arc de ciel" we see.  Its a bit like Scotland in that way.  The open skies allow us long open vistas.

The vistas are really special here on Lake Champlain.  More later

We are loving this life.


PM's Perspective:  Healthy Living 

During a recent telephone conversation with our son, Phil, he asked, "Are you eating well?"  I was somewhat surprised by his question as I always make an effort to eat well; however, on a boat journey it is understandable that one would be concerned about the availability of good food.  We have found on this adventure that good eating takes a modicum of planning but that as the world becomes more conscious of the impact of diet on health, the practice of good eating becomes easier and easier.  Over the years, particularly as Bob and I have become aware of the aging process and that our bodies are no longer 20 something, we have made more of an effort to eat well.  To us, this means eating locally grown fruits and vegetables and locally raised livestock, wild fish and the like and eating organic foods when we can.

Fortunately, supermarkets have become sensitive to this trend and provide more and more organic foods on their shelves.  On this trip, we have been lucky to find some excellent resources.  Our most recent find was City Market/Onion River Co-op on Winooski Street in Burlington, VT just a short walk from the waterfront.  What a great source of delicious goodies!  We stocked up on organic meats, breads, fruits, vegetables, the freshest Shitake mushrooms I've ever seen, ginger snaps and chocolate (our supply was starting to run low!).  The problem is not so much one of finding these things but of eating them before they expire.  The big shocker though was finding out the locally grown organic cantaloupe cost $9.99.  "We're not letting this one go bad," I said to Bob while the fruit flies circled overhead in anticipation.  We sliced it open yesterday and took a bite.  We were not disappointed; however Bob did comment that it was a great $4.99 cantaloupe but a lousy $9.99 cantaloupe.

We prepare most of our meals on the boat, but do eat at restaurants several times a week. My favorite meal out is breakfast at the local greasy spoon feasting on two eggs over easy, bacon, home fries and toast.  Our great restaurant finds have been Finch and Chubb in Whitehall and Chef Lin and Ray's in Essex, NY.  Otherwise, on board, its fresh fruit, oatmeal, blueberry pancakes or some other outrageously healthy fare.  Lunch is often a sandwich, salad, fruit or leftovers from the previous night's dinner.  I have found that Applewood produces a brand of organic cold cuts without nitrates, nitrites and the like which are quite tasty and convenient, particularly when underway.  We snack on Larabars and fresh fruit, usually a banana or apple.  Dinners consist of fresh or roasted veggies, a salad with lots of ingredients, and usually some protein or a stir-fry accompanied by a fine glass of Pinot Grigio (or two).  Bob has mentioned that he is getting sick of salads, but that's his problem!  We are not dessert people, but do enjoy a bit of dark chocolate after dinner.

Gone are the days of eating potato chips, Frito's, Cheetos and other snack foods, candy, processed foods, canned food, ice cream, foods with preservatives, Vienna sausages, Ballpark hot dogs, foods with ungodly coloring, hamburger helper, and the like.  We find we don't really miss them and we feel so much better!

Bon appetite!