2015 Begins in Key West

PM's Perspective

The new year finds us in Key West, Florida, where the air is soft and embracing, the temperature is delightfully mild, the ocean breeze refreshing and the dawn and sunset skies like no others I've ever

Interior/exterior temperatures
January 13, 2015

witnessed.  While temperatures are well below freezing in New England with lots of snow on the ground, we are comfortably wearing only shorts and sleeveless shirts and flip-flops.  Velomer rests at a slip within Stock Island Marina Village that we have rented for the last month, and we have enjoyed our every minute in this paradise.  The official motto of the city is, "One Human Family."  The community is very inclusive, very tolerant, accepting, diverse and the confluence of almost every lifestyle imaginable.  "Live and let live" is the general attitude along with "What, me worry?" and "Don't worry, be happy."  This is a refreshing contrast from the Bible Belt not too far to the north.  In many ways, this is the way life should be.

A protected rooster perched upon the
front wheel of PM's bike

Also known as the Conch Republic after the large sea snail common to the area, Key West exhibits some very unique characteristics.  The city is the furthest point south of the continental US creating frost-free weather.  The economy is based on a combination of Naval bases and tourism.  Chickens are a protected animal and freely roam the streets.  Polydactyl cats, originally brought to the area by Ernest Hemingway, are a common sight throughout downtown.  Geckos hide out in the shadows of plants and buildings.  You are as likely to see an 85 year old grandmother in a mini-skirt as a pot-bellied tourist drinking copious amounts of rum at 10 AM along Duval Street in downtown.  One of the best features is the bike-friendliness of the area.  Off road bike paths abound.  The terrain is mostly level so the biking is easy and most drivers courteously give bikers the right of way.  More bicycles are reportedly stolen each year than automobiles.

Anni & Tryg with the old sea captain
outside the aquarium

While in Key West, we enjoyed visits from family.  Phoebe, Erik, and their twins Annika and Trygvy sailed down from Vero Beach aboard their Nayad 39 aptly named Swiftwater.  When anchored in Key Biscayne at No Name Harbor just south of Miami, Phil, Bettina and our grandpuppy Otto flew in from New York and Bob and I drove up from Key West in a car borrowed from Steve and Lynn, some new friends we met at our marina (more about them later).  Bob and I along with Annika, Tryg and Otto drove back to Velomer and Phoebe, Erik, Phil and Bettina sailed Swiftwater to Stock Island. So for several days, Bob and I got to play with the grandchildren and grandpuppy giving in to their every whim.  We visited the aquarium, went to the playground, made cupcakes,

Anni & Tryg getting a ride
from Mom & Dad

went on dock walks, checked out the jellyfish swimming around Velomer, took Otto to the dog park and all sorts of fun and engaging activities.

When the rest of the gang sailed in, we all had a great time just being around each other with engaging conversation and sampling the local flavors of the area including some fine dining at the local dives (my favorite of which is Hog Fish Bar and Grill on Stock Island) and attending the sunset ceremonies at Mallory Square.
One of the days Bob and I with Phil, Bettina and Otto took Velomer out to West Sambo reef to pick up a mooring and snorkel.  After snorkeling and while enjoying a delicious lunch, we watched as a catamaran sailboat under full sail recklessly ram into the reef.  In an effort to free up the keel, all aboard moved to the stern of the boat at which point a large swell came up and swamped the dinghy that was on davits above the swim platform causing the dinghy to flip and spill out its contents of gas can, fender and cooler.  In an effort to retrieve these items, one of the crew jump overboard with no life jacket or lifeline.  The operator of the boat required multiple passes (with the sails still up) to successfully pick up the crew member and the items.  The stupidity of some boaters is beyond my comprehension.

After several days, Swiftwater set sail heading north to return to Vero Beach with Phoebe, Erik and the twins aboard.  At this point, Bob and I took the opportunity to have quality time with

Bettina, Phil & Otto

newly weds Phil and Bettina and, of course, Otto.  It is so life affirming to be around such happy and in love people.  Since their wedding in October, these two have driven cross country from San Francisco to New York, visiting friends and enjoying the local cuisine along the way and are planning a three week trip to Thailand in February before settling down in Brooklyn and getting serious about jobs, careers and the like.  Way to go, Phil and Bettina!  Enjoy while you can!

January is the month of both Phil's and Bettina's birthday.  To celebrate, we took them to La-Te-Da on Duval Street for an

Randy Roberts with Phil & Bettina

elegant dinner and live cabaret show with Randy Roberts, a female impersonator who does outstanding performances as Cher and Bette Midler as well as a female character of his own creation.  He is interactive with the audience, has an excellent voice and exquisite timing.  The evening could not have been more enjoyable!

In addition to family visits, our month in Key West has been used to make modifications, repairs, organize and clean Velomer. Initially these were in preparation for a potential journey over to the Bahamas, but the more we contemplate such a trip, the more we think we will wait for another time for a variety of reasons. The weather is particularly variable this season, and we want to be around Phoebe, Erik and the twins while they are in the area as next winter, they will be in other waters.

The two modifications we have made is the removal of the helm seat in the salon which has vastly opened up the interior living area and the removal of two saddlebag storage satchels on the port and starboard side of the fly bridge that has also opened up the usable space in the bridge.  These two changes have created more elbow room without impacting functionality.  The repairs included replacing the zippers of the screen doors; removing another clog in the chase from the rear head to the holding tank; extensive varnishing of the hand and toe rails and windows and doors; installing a fan at the rear of the refrigerator to aid air circulation during very warm weather; replacing the motor in the air conditioning unit; rebuilding the alternator; and replacing shaft ball zincs and transom bar zincs.  Cleaning included washing all curtains, windows and screens; removing all the clutter from the dashboard (an endless task as odd papers, tools, fly swatters and the like seem to find their way there); clearing the cupboards of all the food that has been there for a year or more without being consumed; culling excess clothing and shoes (I haven't been very successful at this one either!); power washing the rugs and decks, and staying ahead of everyday messiness.

This is the first time we have stayed for such an extended period at any one marina.  The advantage to this is twofold.  First is financial.  The monthly rate at marinas is typically equivalent to 10 days at the daily rate, so the savings is substantial.  The second is social.  The extended time allows for friendships to form.  Just the fact that we own a live-aboard boat and cruise makes us an immediate member of the boating community within any marina that we stay at.  All boaters, no matter what their backgrounds, have the common interests of boats and cruising.  Many of the cruisers in this marina stay for weeks or months at a time and have extensive knowledge of the local area as well as their home ports making them very valuable resources.  Interestingly enough, and I think that this is due to the short amount of time most boaters/cruisers spend with each other, only first names are divulged along with the boat name, so Bob and I are know as Bob and Pat of Velomer, the 36-foot Monk.

The most memorable folks we have met here are Steve and Lynn aboard Joyful, a 40-foot sailboat owned by another couple also on the boat.  We met Steve and Lynn as well as the owners of Joyful the day we docked in the slip directly across from Joyful.  Steve was very industriously making major modifications to Joyful in preparation of a 2.5-year around the world cruise that was to commence in two weeks.  As the days wore on, Steve and Lynn were becoming ever more painfully aware that neither the boat nor the owners were adequately prepared (nor ever would be) for such a serious undertaking.  As the departure day drew near, the tension was palpable to not only Steve and Lynn but to much of the boating community within the marina.  Fortunately, Steve and Lynn abandoned ship relatively gracefully and stayed on Velomer for several days while they figured out their next move.

Happy aboard Velomer

Our plan is to start heading north this Monday weather permitting.  Our only definite commitment is Norfolk the first week in May to attend America's Great Loop Cruising Association conference.  Life is good!