Oh Say Can You See -- The Star Spangled Spectacular

PM's Perspective

Back in early August we learned that 2014 was the 200th anniversary of the writing of the Star Spangled Banner and to celebrate, the city of Baltimore was having a blow out celebration high lighted by an incomparable fireworks display on Saturday, September 13th.  Anticipating that we would be in Chesapeake Bay about that time we decided to attend the fete.  Bob and I called every marina in the area only to hear laughter at the other end saying the marina has been fully booked for months.  We asked to be put on the waiting list and were told we were at least the 40th in line, so we pretty much gave up on the idea.  Then, on Monday September 8th, we received a call from the Baltimore Marine Centers at Lighthouse Point saying they had a slip and did we want to reserve it for the minimum stay of three days.  Absolutely!  This particular marina is directly across the harbor from Fort McHenry where the Battle of Baltimore took place that inspired the writing of our national anthem,

At that point, we were getting ready to drive back to Maine on business but figured we could return on Friday, cruise to Baltimore leaving early in the morning on Saturday and arrive in time for the fireworks extravaganza that night.  On Tuesday, we drove to Maine, took care of business, and returned to Velomer Friday afternoon to prepare for a Saturday morning departure.  The weather reports were a bit sketchy with a forecast of rain most of the day.  This was the first time we needed to be someplace on a specific day via boat.  Usually, we would not travel on such a rainy day, but Baltimore beckoned.  Due to the flight show by the Blue Angels, Baltimore Harbor was closed between 1:00 PM and 5:00 PM on Saturday, so we scheduled our departure for 9:30 AM which would get us to the Harbor just as the restrictions were lifted.

The water was eerily calm.  The sky was darkening.  I thought, maybe even prayed, "I don't mind getting wet, but I would prefer not to get fried! Please don't let there be lightning!"  The rain started about an hour out of Oxford.  Fortunately, the seas remained calm despite the rain.  We rounded Tilghman Island, cruised up the bay and under the Bay Bridge.  The rain was lessening, and we could even see patches of blue sky above.  By the time we came to the entrance of Baltimore Harbor  the rain had stopped.  We could even see several of the Blue Angels in formation as they flew overhead.  At 4:20 PM the Coast Guard collapsed the restrictions on outgoing boat traffic and half hour later all restrictions were lifted.  Bob handily helmed Velomer under the Francis Scott Key Bridge, through busy harbor boat traffic, and once again expertly maneuvered Velomer into slip J8 at Lighthouse Marina.  Velomer was safely docked well before dark.

We had made plans for our long time friend Susan Williams to spend the next several days with us beginning with dinner on the boat and fireworks viewing.   Susan was driving up from Virginia and was unable to get to the marina before city streets were blocked to traffic to ensure security.  As darkness descended the excitement of the crowd at the marina became palpable with anticipation.  Shortly after 9:30 PM the first rocket was fired -- a brilliant red star burst followed by many others.  Baltimore City really outdid any fireworks I have ever seen.  The city had four barges strategically located throughout the harbor each setting off simultaneous identical displays, 90,000 rockets total in all.  The firework displays included a replica of the American flag of 1814 and the letters USA -- amazing accomplishments for fireworks, indeed. The noise was deafening and gave me pause as to what the sound of battle must be like.

The city really knows how to celebrate.  Activities were scheduled throughout the week throughout the city.  Multiple tall ships and war ships from US allies were in the harbor and available to tour.  Museums had special exhibits.  Fort McHenry, now a national park with a museum dedicated to the Star Spangled Banner, was the centerpiece of festivities.  On Sunday, Bob, Susan and I took the water taxi to the fort and fell in with a guided tour about the War of 1812, the burning of Washington DC, and the Battle of Baltimore which took place over a 25 hour period September 13-14, 1814.  The British sent a fleet of warships to capture Baltimore which from the British point of view was a den of pirates that disrupted British merchant ships.  The Americans honored these so-called pirates as privateers that aided the war effort.  The British had superior fire power and weaponry that included rockets that didn't do a great deal of damage but created a great deal of fear and trepidation from the deafening sound and red glare.  The Americans fought back as best they could with French made cannons fired from the ramparts of the fort.  The American cannon balls could travel about 1.5 miles, but the British cannons could shoot 2 miles.

The 1814 American flag at Fort McHenry in Baltimore

Francis Scott Key who penned the Star Spangled Banner was an American lawyer on a ship in the harbor engaged in working out a prisoner swap when the battle began.  He watched from his ship all day on the 13th and that night not knowing who was winning the battle.  After all, this was in the days before cell phones and You-tube.  On the morning of the 14th he awaited the raising of the flag at Fort McHenry to see which flag was raised -- British or American.  To his delight and amazement, a huge American flag was raised.  At the end of our guided tour, we got to roll out a flag that is a replica of the original 30' by 42' flag that was raised that day.  It actually was a very moving moment.

At the end of the tour, we saw a huge crowd congregating on the fort grounds and decided to investigate.  We had inadvertently stumbled upon the gathering to watch the second day of the Blue Angels air show and helicopter rescue demonstrations.  Another serendipitous spectacular!  The following day we toured the Argyle, a British drug busting ship equipped with two helicopters and boarding speed boats.  Our visit continued with a trip to the National Aquarium on the Baltimore waterfront.

Baltimore Fire Boat

The week long celebration ended on Tuesday with the departure of the ships.  As each of the major war ships passed by Fort McHenry, a cannon was fired in salute.  At the end of the departures, the city's fire boat spouted in honor of the departing flotilla. We stayed another three days at the Inner Harbor Marina enjoying a visit with Ed and Carol Jackson and seeing what there is to see in beautiful downtown Baltimore.

Baltimore is my kind of place -- vibrant, wonderful public spaces, an active waterfront, inner city residences and neighborhoods, public transportation (much of it free), some wonderful museums (I highly recommend the Museum of Visionary Art which displays works by self-taught artists).  I definitely want to spend more time here.