The Good Life Continues

PM's Perspective -- Now for Something Completely Different!

The good life has been so fine that this blog has taken a back seat!  After Baltimore's star spangled spectacular we headed back to Oxford Boatyard where we docked Velomer for a time, rented a car, and headed to Jamestown, RI where we met up with Captain Erik Larsson to help sail the vessel Swiftwater, a 39' Najad, to Norfolk, VA.  The offshore journey was to be my first trip well outside the sight of land and beyond cell phone coverage.  I wasn't sure how I would emotionally respond to the situation but was ready to take the leap.  We arrived in Jamestown on Monday, September 22 with a planned boat departure on Wednesday when the fourth crew member arrived from Colorado.

The next two days were spent provisioning supplies including food, water, fuel, spare parts, tools, gadgets and the like.  The galley had very limited staples.  Salt, pepper, basic spices, flour, can opener, wooden spoons and the essential cork screw all needed to be purchased and stowed on board. I gladly assumed the food provisioning while Bob and Erik focused on the mechanical and electrical aspects of the preparation process. By Wednesday when Andraya arrived, we were ready to roll.  However, the weather was very uncooperative.  Howling wind and uncomfortably choppy seas kept Swiftwater firmly tied to the mooring pennant.  By Friday afternoon the skies cleared enough to make the passage to Block Island, a three hour sail to the south, where we picked up one of the many public moorings available for a reasonable fee.

Bob at Ferry Landing on Block Island

We arrived early enough to walk into town and see the aftermath of the summer season on the area. Many storefronts were closed until the next season, some were opened for another week with limited steeply discounted merchandise, and a few others stayed open year-round catering mainly to the full time residents.  The few tourists on the island enjoyed the less than crowded sidewalks and the shopkeepers donned an apparent attitude of sweet relief that the peak season ended with the Labor Day weekend.  While in town we bought some wine and chocolate to round out our provisioning.  After all, we were to be offshore for at least two full days!

Captain Erik Larsson aboard Swiftwater

Just before dawn we motored out through the inner harbor cut and were treated to a promising sunrise.  The wind was too calm to sail -- a perfect situation for my first offshore stint.  The weather was totally delightful the entire day -- a warm sun, not too hot, a very mild breeze, cloudless sky, mirror like water.  These ideal conditions were punctuated by the occasional pod of dolphins breaking the surface in the distance and bait balls just off the bow. With a crew of four, we divided up the watches for the trip.  Everyone was on during the day from 9 AM to 6 PM.  From 6 PM to 3 AM Erik and Andraya were on watch and from 3 AM to 9 AM Bob and I were on watch.  This schedule worked well for all of us.  The younger crew were much better at staying up late, and the older mariners were much better at getting up early!

Sunrise aboard Swiftwater

Three events stand out providing lasting memories of this particular journey.  The most notable was the bioluminescence, the emission of light by living organisms through chemical reactions, caused by the algae Noctiluca scintillans in the ocean whenever the water is disturbed.  This is primarily a colder clime phenomena.  Due to the motion of the boat through the water, the bioluminescence accentuated Swiftwater's wake on the sides and to the rear of the vessel.  It was magical to stare down into the water and watch as the waves lit up and faded as the boat moved past.  Second was the nighttime sky totally undiluted by city lights.  The milky way was clearly discernible as were the constellations, the big dipper, little dipper and North Star.  The third was the sighting of several dozen solo leatherback turtles sunning themselves at water's surface on our second day out.  They first appeared as floating barrels on the surface, but when we got closer, they would extend their heads up to see what was approaching and then quickly dove down to escape our scrutiny.

We powered into Norfolk Harbor safe and sound on Monday afternoon, September 29.  With Swiftwater safely docked at the marina where she will stay for the next several weeks, we headed northerly by rental car back to Oxford Boatyard and Velomer. We spent the next several days decompressing by doing laundry, restocking the larder on Velomer, enjoying the dock community and the company of fellow cruisers/sailors, biking to St. Michael's, and generally getting organized to head for Washington, DC by boat where we will leave Velomer while we travel to New York for Phil and Bettina's wedding.

The fact that I could not see land or get cell phone reception these few offshore days was quite freeing.  I had the utmost faith in the rest of the crew, particularly the captain who instilled a great deal of confidence, and I knew the boat was safe and seaworthy.  The idyllic weather was a big plus.  This is all giving me the confidence as well as desire to venture to the Bahamas, something that Bob really wants to do this January or February.  Time will tell.  Stay tuned!